Pizzoccheri con zucca

Pizzocheri are a type of short ribbon pasta peculiar to the area of Valtellina, near Lake Como in Italy's north. These are distinctive for having a high proportion of buckwheat or grano saraceno, which is favoured in that area and also used for polenta taragna, made from buckwheat flour instead of maize.

The classic pizzoccheri alla Valtellina recipe involves the unprepossessing combination of pasta, savoy cabbage and potatoes, to which local Casera cheese, or Fontina, is added. Here I have shifted somewhat and made use of seasonal pumpkin/squash which makes good use of the nutty pasta and still offers a nod to the original conception of a simple, warming dish.

Ingredients (for 4-5)
500g pizzoccheri
1 large leek, sliced and rinsed if necessary.
2 cloves garlic
1 small butternut pumpkin/squash, in 1"/2cm cubes
12 fresh sage leaves whole, plus 6 more chopped
olive oil
4 Tbps butter or margarine
1/2 tsp freshly ground nutmeg
grated parmesan or pecorino romano

Method
Heat 2 Tbps olive oil in a heavy skillet and add leek; when softened add chopped garlic. After 2 minutes add the cubed squash/pumpkin and 6 sage leaves chopped, and cook, stirring occasionally, until pumpkin is browning; then add 1/2 cup of water and cook over slow heat until softened (or, you are using the oven for anything else, toss oil, pumpkin/squash cubes, leeks, garlic and chopped sage in an oven-proof dish and bake 20-30 minutes until browned and softened).

Cook pizzoccheri in plenty of boiling water for 8 minutes or so (check packet directions if using pre-made - this next stage should take place while they still have 2-3 minutes cooking left). Take 2/3 cup of cooking water from the pizzocheri and add to the pumpkin/leek mixture, drain the pasta and add to the same pan, stir carefully, add nutmeg and simmer for a few more minutes.

In another pan melt butter and add sage leaves when froth has subsided. When these are getting crisp and the pasta has had its last 2-3 minutes, divide the pasta between bowls, add some crisp sage and butter to each, top with grated cheese and serve.